How to Use Citadel Shade Paints: Green and Crimson Wash Guide
By GUNNZO | Published: 2026-11-04
Category: Anleitungen
Learn how to use Citadel Shade paints with Biel-tan Green and Carroburg Crimson. A step-by-step wash guide covering thinning, application, and common mistakes.
Quick answer
Apply Citadel Shade paints straight from the pot over a fully dry basecoat, using a single controlled pass per area. Let the wash pool in recesses and avoid brushing it flat to preserve natural depth.
Why shade paints behave differently from regular washes
Citadel Shade paints are water-based and formulated to draw out details with natural-looking depth and shadow. That means they flow into recesses more actively than a thinned standard paint, so you need less product and fewer brush strokes than you might expect. Overworking the wash lifts pigment from the recesses and leaves a patchy, tide-marked finish.
The two shades here serve different color families. Biel-tan Green suits green armor, foliage, and organic surfaces where you want a cool, natural shadow. Carroburg Crimson works on red cloth, skin, and warm-toned details, adding a rich, slightly purple shadow that reads as depth rather than dirt.
When to skip a shade wash
Shade paints are not a universal fix. On very light or white surfaces, a green or crimson wash can stain the basecoat and create an unwanted tint. If you need to keep a bright, clean color, use a targeted pin wash instead of an all-over application. Also avoid shade paints on surfaces that are still tacky or wet; the wash will trap moisture and dry unevenly.
Step-by-step Citadel Shade application
- Prepare a fully dry basecoat: Paint your miniature with a base color and let it cure completely. Shade paints need a sealed surface to flow correctly; applying over damp paint causes the wash to mix with the basecoat and turn muddy. Check recesses and deep areas are dry before you start.
- Load the brush lightly: Dip a medium brush into the shade pot and wipe one side on the rim. You want a controlled bead of wash, not a dripping brush. Overloading floods the model and creates pools that dry with dark rings. A little goes further than you think with shade paints.
- Apply in one direction per area: Brush the shade over the whole area in a single pass, following the direction of the detail. Do not scrub back and forth. For Biel-tan Green on armor panels, start at the top and draw the wash downward into recesses. One pass per surface prevents patchy drying.
- Soak up excess from flat areas: Use a clean, dry brush to touch the tip to any pool that forms on a flat surface. This pulls the wash into nearby recesses and stops it from drying as a dark stain. Work quickly before the wash starts to set. Flat areas should look lightly tinted, not flooded.
- Let it dry completely before judging: Shade paints dry darker than they look wet. Wait until the surface is fully matt before deciding if you need a second pass. Applying more while damp reactivates the first layer and ruins the gradient. If in doubt, wait five minutes and check again.
- Build a second layer only where needed: For deeper shadows, apply a second controlled wash only in the deepest recesses. Use Biel-tan Green for green areas and Carroburg Crimson for red areas. Avoid recoating the whole surface, which flattens the contrast you just created. Target the recess, not the raised detail.
Products used in this guide
- Citadel Shade: Biel-tan Green 18ml: Water-based formula with a smooth matt finish. Dries flat without gloss, so it blends into most miniature paint schemes without extra varnish.
Citadel Shade: Biel-tan Green 18ml - Citadel Shade: Carroburg Crimson 18ml: Formulated to draw out details with natural-looking depth and shadow. Flows into recesses on its own, so you can shade red cloth and skin with minimal brushwork.
Citadel Shade: Carroburg Crimson 18ml
